Friday, September 7, 2012

09/07/2012 Rub a Dub Hub, Just Soakin' in the Tub

Miles: 5.8
Time: 0:41:11
Elevation: 206
Average Speed: 8.4
Max Speed: 30.9

I received my "Dyno" wheel and Lumotec N2 Halogen light this afternoon. These items along with the Biologic Recharge Battery Pack are to be the electrical system for my touring bike which will make me energy independent on tour. During the day I can switch the light off and use the dyno to charge the battery pack and consequently my cell phone, the smart phone I run the Strava bicycle tracking app on, my MP3 player and any other small USB chargeable devices I might care to carry. If I ride at night I will have a serviceable headlight always on tap.

The wheel came in good shape. It has a Shimano Alfine "Dyno" hub, a Sun CR18 double wall rim and double butted 14/15 spokes. It is a machine built wheel and Harris Cyclery where I purchased it will true and tension the spokes for $12.00 which I had them do.

Contrary to some reviews I had read I had absolutely no problem getting the tire on the rim. I did have a small bit of frustration installing the light and battery wires in the hub connector. The drill is to twist the light and battery wires together then plug them into the connector. This would have been a piece of cake with one device only but I had some trouble getting the wires from both devices twisted tightly enough to go through the small holes in the connector. This was a very minor issue and the connector arrangement looks like it will be reliable and durable and easy to unplug in the event the front wheel needs to come off. The Harris Cyclery Dyno Hub web page has a very good graphical depiction of the connector and how to wire it. One thing to notice is that the light, the battery and the connector are all polarized. One must make sure to get the plus and minus wires paired correctly and in the right holes.

I mounted the light on the front cantilever brake bolt with the fender and zip tied the Biologic regulator and both light and battery wires to the fork then picked up the front and gave it a spin. The light came on instantly. A good sign. Next I switched off the light and turned the Biologic to "Charge In" and spun the wheel again. The green charge light on the Biologic came on. Success!

I next spent some frustrating time improving the front fender installation. I ended up taking the fender off the bike to get the struts right. I will have to do the same with the rear when I get up enough gumption to take on removing the wheel. The front fender comes off with the wheel on but not the back.

By now is was well after dark so I put on my helmet and new sandals and went out for a short test ride. The light appears to reach full brightness at about 5 MPH. Below that it dims and flickers. I did not spend the extra money to get the "Standlight" version which charges a capacitor and stays lit to some degree for several minutes after coming to a stop. I do not intend to travel at night except in dire circumstances and if I do I will use a small AA battery powered light set on flashing mode for visibility when not moving.

The Lumotec light I chose is halogen and not LED. It makes a beam as good or better than my fairly high end NiCad or NIMH battery powered lights. It may not be quite as good as my friend Doug's expensive (~$100 or more) Lithium battery lights but it requires no charging an only cost $16. It is always available. I imagine some of the more expensive LED lights are fantastic! Eventually I may get a wired taillight but for now will use Planet Bike Blinky lights.

I will comment further when I have had a chance to give the Biologic a good test by charging it from the Dyno.

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