Wednesday, February 5, 2014

2014-02-05 - Mountai Bike Refurb, Around Park on Single Speed, Mods to Single Speed

Miles: 8.9
Start Time 04:32
Moving Time: 1:03:18
Elevation(Ft): 0
Avg Speed(MPH): 8.4
Max Speed(MPH): 14.3
Avg Cadence:
Avg HR:
Max HR:
Temp Out: 58
Temp In: 56

This morning I retrieved yesterday's parcel from the office and went to work on the "Roadmaster" mountain bike. I had received the pedals, brake pads, seat binder bolt and chain Monday. Today I had the seat post, seat and shifters. I started with the seat. The binder bolt while the correct length is not the proper diameter of this bike (who would have guessed the Chinese would use something non-standard?). I drilled out the hole to fit. Event though I measured it 6 times and even took the standard 27.7 mm seat post off one of my other bikes to test the size (it seemed to fit) the new post is too small (in my defense the seat tube is pretty beat up and barely round). After some thought I decided to put a rubber shim on the post. That appears to work fine. If it is a problem later I will have to hunt up a larger post. I am not sure what size it is but I do not think it is a usual size. It is possible that the original post was in the trash when I fished the bike out (I saw the old ruined seat) but did not have the presence of mind to check.

Seat, seatpost and binder bolt in place:

I next removed the old handlebar grips and broken shifters and put the new shifters on. I replaced the shift and brake cables then put on the new brake pads. That was about it for the morning. I did not put the chain on because I am still not sure if I will pull the cranks and service the bottom bracket. I may leave it as is and replace it with a modern sealed bearing unit after the kids ride the bike awhile. I did put the new pedals on. The steel parts of this bike are rusted but I will let the kids worry about that. The bike has obviously been sitting outside probably near the coast in Washington or Oregon. It will be outside near the coast at the kids too so as long as the bike is serviceable that is probably all that is required.

Shifters, new cables and front brake pads:

Rear and front derailleurs and rear brake pads. Old pedals:

I got up from a nap about 4:00 and checked my mail. I had 2 parcels, one containing the mountain bike tubes and the other the new handlebar and chain guide/tensioner for my single speed bike. I spent about 5 minutes doing a crude install of the tensioner, changed my clothes and rode around the park for an hour. My intent was to do about 1/2 hour but I had so much fun I kept going. The tensioner did its job well, the chain did not come off at all in spite of my best efforts to dislodge it.

After I finished the ride I bought the bike in and set about to change the bars and do a better job of putting on the tensioner. The worst part of the bar change was having to unhook the brakes to remove the levers. More correctly the bad part was hooking the brakes back up and adjusting them again. The brakes are antiques an are very hard to work with compared to modern ones. Both the levers and calipers are barely adequate. I may replace them with more modern units later.

New bar:

After getting the brakes set up reasonably well I went to work on the tensioner. It was not too difficult to get is in place in a more permanent manner but it does not have enough adjustment to take up the slack that was in the chain. I took a link out of the chain an dropped it down to the next smaller cog and that did not make much difference. After looking at the situation for awhile I realized I could probably remove the nut and bolt that keeps the derailleur hanger from rotating as I am not using the hanger except to hold the rear wheel on. The right side slot for the wheel axle is in the hanger and the hanger is sitting on top of the frame. It is easy to see why this system was abandoned in favor of the modern technique which has the hanger in a recess in the frame. Rotation is not an issue. By removing the bolt and nut I gained room in the axle slot and was able to move the wheel up and back to take the slack out of the chain. I was able to back off the tensioner which leaves room for adjustment as the chain wears and gets longer and looser.

Tensioner before derailleur hanger bolt removal:

Tensioner after bolt removal and wheel adjustment:

Hanger and wheel after adjustment, note old marks which show how far wheel moved up and back:

My touring bike with typical state of the art derailleur hanger mounted in frame recess:

The next project was to remover the large chain ring and chain guard which were riveted to the small ring. More modern or higher end bikes have the rings bolted on for easy replacement. I got out my trusty drill and drilled the rivets out and popped the ring and guard off with a hammer and punch. I could have left these items in place but they are dead weight and besides that they do not look cool. Drive side crank arm showing rivets holding guard and big ring to small ring (large ring is behind guard):

Large ring and guard laying where they fell:

Naked small ring. I may buy a set of chain ring bolts and put the guard on later:

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